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Topics - Dries

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 7
1
Plant swops and sales / Seedlings for sale
« on: May 18, 2009, 18:18:35 PM »
I have 1800 seedlings standing in Pretoria (in bags and all have flowered the last season). I would like to sell to a single buyer at R10 each. Ideal for landscaping. Anyone with a contact?

2
Plant swops and sales / Shidava Daylilies Pricelist 2009
« on: April 07, 2009, 16:49:22 PM »
If you are interested to recieve Shidava's latetest price list, please send me a normal e-mail to dries@driesesgarden.co.za

3
General / Handy site
« on: January 07, 2009, 08:08:53 AM »
Here is a handy site to see all the latest updates on hybridizers sites:
http://www.abacom.com/chacha/gardenHybridC.htm

4
General / Some flowers now (Episode 4)
« on: November 17, 2008, 19:49:18 PM »
Islesworth

Spiny Sea Urchin

?????? (John, Please refresh my memory here??)

5
General / Some flowers now (Episode 3)
« on: November 17, 2008, 19:46:28 PM »
Storm Prince

Lavender Tomorrow

Sabine Bauer

A seedling I called Deltona (the town in the centre of the Daylily Mecca in Florida)

Another own seedling I named after the Afrikaans auther (and a daylily friend) PG du Plessis

And another own seedling called Kurt Darren

6
General / Some flowers now (Episode 2)
« on: November 17, 2008, 19:36:42 PM »
Roses in Snow

Rapid Eye Movement

Strawberry Lace

One of my own seedlings. Huge flower count!!

Black Lapis

Musical Interlude

7
General / Some flowers now (Episode 1)
« on: November 17, 2008, 19:32:28 PM »
Poets Reverie

Mort Morss (looking a bit better now but still not 100% clear)

Jacky Kropff

Jane Trimmer

Irresistable Charm

Blues Avenue

8
Bulbs / A Dahlia from Germany
« on: November 03, 2008, 20:13:36 PM »
I brought this bulb from Germany in april

9
General / Some registered varieties in flower
« on: November 03, 2008, 20:11:41 PM »
Custard Candy


Night Raider


Storm Prince



Always dirty in my climate 'Mort Morss'


Irresistable Charm


Poets Reverie


Zephyr Song


Paper Butterfly


Tar & Feathers


Black Lapis


Spacecoast starburst


Rapid Eye Movement


Musical Interlude


Jacki Kropff


On the Web


Spiny Sea Urchin


Blues Avenue


Mal


Mister Lucky


Thunder and Blazes




10
General / Some seedlings flowering now
« on: November 03, 2008, 19:49:52 PM »
















11
All on trees and shrubs / 2 colour Jakaranda
« on: November 03, 2008, 18:34:21 PM »
Anyone seen this befor or who can explain this? It is a Jakaranda along the street on the way to my house. 1 branch has white flowers while the rest of the tree is normal urple. I have been wondering about this phenominon for many years!!






12
General / Prolifs from Daylilies
« on: October 22, 2008, 07:20:58 AM »
Proliferations
By Lee Pickles, Hixson, TN

I have mentioned several times in my writings about proliferations and several of you have asked how I handle them and since there are as many ways to handle prolifs as there are AHS members . . . thus, the title, "Proliferations . . . My Way". [Fall] is a good time in most areas of the U.S. to check your cultivars for proliferations, which are miniature plants that you will occasionally find growing from a bract area of a daylily scape. These proliferations will be exact replicas of the mother plant.
At this point you have several options:
1. If the scape is still green, leave the prolif on the scape to encourage some root growth prior to removing. The scape will eventually start turning brown, but if you will look closely, you will still have a "live" green area coming up from the crown of the plant to the prolif. When this area turns brown, you need to remove the prolif.
2. If the prolif is already well rooted, it can be removed. (Planting alternatives will be discussed next). If you remove the prolif, leave some scape below the bottom of the baby plant to stabilize when planted. If the scape still has seed pods, it is best to wait until they have been harvested to remove the proliferation.
3. I would cut the foliage back as soon as the prolif is harvested so the plant does not have to try to support all the extra foliage. If it is a small prolif, you may want to cut it back to about 2", and leave the length on larger ones about 4".
4. If you get nervous and for some reason want to remove the prolif prior to the roots starting, cut the scape 2-3 inches below the prolif, and insert into a container of water, with the water covering the bottom of the prolif. I use Dixie plastic cups (appropriate for a Southerner). Also, I use a very weak solution of a water-soluble fertilizer, like 20-20-20. Check the water often and maintain the original level. It is also recommended to change the water every couple of days. Another method of encouraging roots is to have a box filled with sand, insert the proliferations in the sand and keep it moist. [Whichever method is used, do not allow the roots to dry out. - Ed.] Remember to label the prolif . . . our memories are not as good as we sometimes think, and when you are working with several proliferations, you can easily become confused! Thus, CRS is a good excuse!!!
After the root system has developed, you have some planting options:
1. Place the prolif directly in the ground beside the mother plant. You do need to remember to keep the area moist.
2. My personal preference is to place the prolif in a 4" pot filled with potting soil for at least a month and then plant directly in the garden. [See item 4 below- Ed.]
3. When planting in any location, I would recommend trimming the foliage back to 1 1/2" to 2" (I believe that has been referred to as scalping), and dust the base and roots with Rootone (or some other rooting agent) which has a growth stimulator plus a fungicide. Do not let the planting medium dry in the initial growth.
[4. In the north, mulch the prolif well or grow in a protected cold frame. -Ed.]
Note: If you are selling or trading plants, it is best to allow the plant to bloom before selling or trading, that way, you will know that you have not gotten them mixed up. If you do rid yourself of the plant before blooming, ethics would dictate to inform the other person that this is a proliferation. After it has bloomed, and you have determined that it is the right plant, then it is like any other division of that cultivar.

13
General / Hybridizing Daylilies and other info (2)
« on: October 22, 2008, 07:19:40 AM »
My Hybridizing Method
I have often been asked to give more detail about hybridizing, especially record keeping. The following is the method I am currently using. This is in no way the only way to do things. It's just the method I've have found that works for me and it's constantly changing as I find ways to improve. Your personal method may be completely different than mine and may work as well or better for you than this one does for me.
Selecting which crosses to make
During the winter months, I begin planning the crosses I would like to make during the coming bloom season. First I identify my primary goals (what am I attempting to accomplish with my crosses this year). Then I review my breeding stock (including seedlings) to select which plants have the characteristics I am looking for. These will be the plants I will use as pollen parents in the upcoming year. I make sure that this list doesn't include any plants that have what I consider major flaws as I don't want to knowingly introduce bad plant traits into my line. Actually, this list already exists from the previous year and it's simply a matter of eliminating those that I no longer wish to work with and adding any new stock that I may have acquired.
Then I begin reviewing all my breeding stock for potential crosses with this list of pollen parents. Again, I keep my goals in mind whenever deciding to make a cross. I list each plant and the cross (or crosses) to be made. To help make the decisions, I use something I call my "Hybridizer's Pal" (see sample). It's like a web page with the pictures of pollen parents on the right and all the potential pod parents on the left. I can then compare each cultivar with the potential pollen parents. In addition to showing the bloom I also include my own hybridizing notes regarding bloom size, branching, bud count, and plant habits (both good and bad). Most plants have both good traits and bad and I make sure not to cross two plants that both have the same bad traits. For example, two plants with low bud count will usually have children that all have low bud counts which would be a waste of time and garden space. Instructions for making your own Hybridizer's Pal.
Different cultivars selected for crossing may bloom at different times. This would turn a "planned cross" list into a "hoped-for cross" list. Fortunately, daylily pollen freezes quite well and if frozen properly will remain fertile for years. I store my pollen in plastic contact lens cases (the plastic ones that hard contact lenses come in that just snap shut). My local optician ordered a hundred for me although he now looks at me rather strangely when I come in for my checkup. I cut off some of the excess plastic and found a couple of clear plastic boxes each with 18 compartments. Each compartment holds 12 of these cases. This allows me to store pollen from up to 18 cultivars in a rather small space in the freezer. Having two boxes allows me to be collecting pollen for next year in one while using the pollen out of the other.
To freeze the pollen, I simply remove the anthers with a pair or tweezers and place a couple in the cup of each lens case. I dry the pollen by leaving the cases open in an air-conditioned room with a ceiling fan going at low speed to give some air circulation. After 12-24 hours I close the cases up and put them in the freezer. When I'm ready to use them, I simply remove a case from the freezer, let it warm to room temperature for a few minutes before opening, and then grab an anther with my tweezers and head for the garden.
Making Crosses
Each night, once bloom season starts, I make a list of the plants that will bloom the following day. Then I decide what will be crossed to each of the plants on the list. If I have already made a particular cross this year, I write the cross number I previously used on the sheet so I won't accidently assign a different number to it. For each new cross made I make an entry in an Excel spreadsheet. The first cross is number 1, the second 2, etc... The following is a sample of what the spreadsheet might look like after a few entries:
Cross
#   Pod Parent   Pollen Parent
1   Isle of Zanzibar   Uppermost Edge
2   Grace and Grandeur   Ida's Braid
3   Splendid Touch   Edge of Heaven
I like using Excel for this because I can sort by the pollen parent making it easy to see if I have made a cross, and then I can sort back by the cross number.
Each individual bloom that has been pollinated is marked with the cross number. I make my own bloom tags by cutting up old 1" mini-blinds into 1.5" pieces, punching a hole in one end with a paper punch, and inserting the end of a twistie. A couple of twists and I have a tag. I use a Sharpie Permanent Marker to write the cross number on the tag and gently wrap the twistie around the base of the bloom.
Seed storage
When the seed pods start to split open, I remove the seeds and place them in a fold-lock top baggie (the cheap kind). I use the cross tag to tie up each baggie (so I know what's in it) and toss it in the crisper drawer of the refrigerator. If harvesting on a rainy day, I use a paper towel to dry the seeds a little before placing them in the bag. Wet seeds can sometimes germinate prematurely or become moldy even in the refrigerator. When the last seeds have been harvested, I will sort the baggies by cross number, combining all the seeds from a particular cross in one bag.
Planting the seeds
If it's been a good year, I will usually have more seeds than I can reasonably expect to grow. To decide which seeds will be planted, I go back to the Excel spreadsheet I created when making my crosses. I add another column which is a planting code. Here I rate each cross from 0 thru 5 as follows:
?   5 = future Stout medals (ha!)
?   4 = excellent crosses
?   3 = good crosses
?   2 = fair crosses
?   1 = crosses done just to make sure I have enough seeds
?   0 = no seed produced
Then I sort descending by this code. This puts the list of crosses in the same priority order as this list.
Usually about the 2nd or 3rd week in August, I start my seeds in 'tree trays'. The individual cells are 2" wide at the top and 5" deep. They taper slightly toward the bottom which makes it easy to get the seedlings out when it's time to transplant. Each tray has 38 cells. I plant 40 trays which is just over 1500 seeds. The planting mix should be light and well drained which will allow plenty of oxygen to reach the root systems as the plants develop. I number each tray 1-40 and make notes showing which cross is in each cell on each tray.
These trays are placed in my driveway and kept well watered. I suspend some shade cloth over the trays because the sun here may be still too strong for the seedlings. I water frequently so they don't dry out. I usually get about 85% germination, sometimes more. Starting about a month after the seeds germinate, I begin feeding with half strength water soluble fertilizer (15-30-15) about every 2 weeks or so. I'll do this until I'm ready to plant them in the ground. The shade cloth comes off usually the first week in October.
I work lots of organic matter (usually composted stable sweepings) into the bed prior to transplanting the seedlings. Then I cover the areas to be planted with a light weight weed block fabric. I plant my seedlings 4" apart in rows 8" apart. I know this is really closer together than they should be, but I have such limited space, it's the only way I can get a reasonable number of seedlings planted every year. Even this close together, I can only get about 1000 new seedlings planted each year.
To transplant the seedlings, I cut a 2.5" cross in the fabric with a sharp knife every 4" along the row. Then I use a dibble to prepare the hole. I couldn't find a dibble the right size for this so I made my own from a 2 foot length of 2 inch round wooden railing available at Home Depot. I just fashioned one end into a point and it works great. By pushing the point down into the soil and moving it around a couple of times in a circular fashion, I have a hole that's almost exactly the same size and shape as the seedling root ball from the trays. I just pop the seedling out of the tray and plop it in the hole. A little pressure around the sides and it's done.
The timing of the transplanting is not that important as the plants keep growing in the trays. I usually plant when I get time, which has been as late as February. My target for this year is early December. Remember, I live on the gulf coast so we seldom get much of a winter.
Selecting the keepers
When the seedlings begin blooming for the first time, I mark the seedlings that I find interesting and would like to possibly evaluate further. Because my seedlings are grown so close together, I usually don't get to see the plant's potential until I move it to one of my evaluation beds where it has lots of room. However, I can usually get a good idea of the plant's potential by how well it does under these crowded conditions. Unfortunately, I don't have enough space in the evaluation beds to keep every interesting seedling so I use the following procedure to select what get's to be further evaluated.
Each interesting bloom is assigned a number and logged in a book with some basic data such as bloom size, scape height, branching, and bud count. The number is prefixed with the first bloom year and numbered sequentially as they are entered in the book (IE: 2000-001, 2000-002, etc...). I take a digital image so I have a good record of what the bloom looks like. A numbered flag is placed next to the plant so it can be located later. This process lasts 2 years as some seedlings don't really show their potential until the 2nd bloom year.
After the 2nd bloom season, it's time to decide what I keep and what I compost. I review the images and performance notes I have made during the first 2 years and basically make selections based on the following criteria:
?   Seedlings that are possible candidates for introduction
?   Seedlings that have a beautiful bloom but branching and bud count may not be up to par.
?   Seedlings that are pretty and have excellent garden habits
The second group is considered because once a plant is moved to where it is not competing for space, it will show it's true potential and may indeed have a good bud count and branching. The last group is selected primarily for use as yardsale plants. Any plants that were marked but not selected for further evaluation are usually given away to friends and co-workers. Plants not marked at all are discarded.
Selected seedling evaluation
Plants in the evaluation beds have their vital signs taken every year (bloom size, bud count, branching, and scape height). New images are taken to keep the archive current. Seedlings being considered for introduction will also have additional information recorded such as bloom season, foliage habit, fragrance, etc...
Each fall the evaluation plants are reviewed and the following are selected for removal from the beds:
?   Seedlings that will be registered. These are moved to a separate bed and lined out for increase.
?   Seedlings that have performed well but will probably not be registered. These are removed and potted up for my yard sale in the spring.
?   Seedlings that have not done that well. These are sent to the compost pile.
Selecting seedlings for registration is probably the most difficult part of the evaluation. In addition to the normal requirements of good branching, bud count, plant vigor, rebloom, etc..., I ask myself "would I devote some of the limited space in my display beds to grow it" and "would I be proud to tell someone that I was the hybridizer". If I can answer yes to both questions then I will consider registering it.
Well, that's about all there is to it... at least at this time. As I said before, I'm constantly trying to find better ways to do this. As I think back over the years I see all the changes I've gone through. From crossing one pretty plant to another, to planting seeds directly in the ground, to digging up a bed after only one bloom season, I'm happy to say that there wasn't anything I did that didn't work. It's just that some things seem to work a little better than others.
Good luck and may there be a Stout Silver Medal in your future!

14
General / Hybridizing Daylilies and other info (1)
« on: October 22, 2008, 07:18:41 AM »
Dear all,
Maybe you will find the following interesting? I will post it in a few parts as the number of characters per post is limited by the system)

The Six Step Beginner's Approach to Hybridizing
Daylily flowers are very easy to pollinate. All the parts that must be manipulated to pollinate are fairly large and can be easily handled. Because of this, getting started in hybridizing your own daylilies is very easy.
One question I am frequently asked is if seeds gotten from a plant that was fertilized with it's own pollen will produce plants that are identical to the parent plant. The answer is no. While the likelyhood is that the plant will be quite similar, usually it will not bloom as well and sometimes the bloom will be completely different than the parent.
The following is designed to help the beginner get started. Once you start hybridizing, you will probably develop your own specific procedures.
STEP 1 - selecting the flowers you want to cross
While professional daylily hybridizers go through a very specific selection process when deciding which daylilies to cross, when just starting out, there is basically only one thing you should be aware of:
There are 2 types of daylilies, diploids and tetraploids. They are very hard to tell apart and pollen from one type will not set seed on the other. If you do not know which type you have, plan on crossing several different varieties in case some turn out to be different types and don't set seed.
When asked how she decided which daylilies to cross, the late Elsie Spalding, a famous hybridizer noted for her excellent form and pastel colors, replied ...I just put pretty on pretty. I recommend that beginning hybridizers use the same method. Just select daylilies that you like and make your crosses with them.
STEP 2 - make your crosses
Now you need to fertilize the flower to make seeds.
Coming from the center of the daylily flower are typically six stamens and one pistil (they should be easy to identify - there's 6 of one and only 1 of the other). The powdery substance at the ends of the stamens is the pollen and it should be taken from one flower and placed on the tip of the pistil of the other flower.
The best time of day to do this is just after the pollen has dried and become fluffy, usually about mid-morning. The later in the day you apply the pollen, the less your chances are for successful pollination.
You may want to keep records of the crosses you make as this will help you identify what works and what doesn't, but it is not necessary.
Do not remove the old bloom after applying pollen, let it fall off on it's own accord. If the cross was successful, there will be a tiny green pod right at the spot where the flower was attached. This pod contains the seeds and will continue to grow during the next few weeks. Note that in some cases there may be a green pod at first but will fall off after a short time.
STEP 3 - harvest the seeds
Typically, the seeds take between 40 and 60 days to mature to the point where they can be harvested. You can tell when it's time to harvest, when the seed pods begin to split open. Sometimes I squeeze the pod gently to see if it is ready to split. This is OK, but remember that seeds harvested too early will probably not germinate.
Remove the seeds from the pods and let them air dry overnight. Then put them in air tight containers and place in the refrigerator for at least 4-6 weeks. Tiny ziplock bags or empty 35mm film containers can be used for this purpose. While it is not necessary to refrigerate prior to planting, it seems to improve the germination rate in most cases. In any case, if the seeds cannot be planted right away, they should be refrigerated to preserve their freshness. I don't recommend that you freeze your seeds.
STEP 4 - plant the seeds
Seeds can be planted directly in the ground, or started in either flats or pots and later transplanted. Remember that seeds require fairly warm soil temperatures for good germination. Plant your seeds between 1/4 and 1/2 inches deep. A good rule of thumb for planting many types of seeds is to plant twice as deep as the seed is fat.
The best time to plant depends on what part of the country you live in. Here in the deep south, I plant in early September. That gives me three months for germination and seedling growth before the cool weather sets in. Further north, seeds are often started indoors and grown under lights during the winter months and then transplanted outside in the spring when the ground warms up.
Plant spacing is dictated by the amount of space you have and the number of seedlings you wish to grow. As I have only limited space, I plant fairly close together - plants are 4 inches apart in rows about 8-10 inches apart. If I had lots of room, I would plant about 12 inches apart in rows about 12 inches apart.
STEP 5 - Wait
Actually there is more to this step than just waiting. While you are waiting, you need to keep the beds weeded and water them regularly. Applying a balanced liquid fertilizer on a regular basis is also beneficial.
In the deep south, where there is a long growing season and the winters are very mild, well fertilized daylilies planted in the early fall will sometimes bloom the following spring. Those that don't bloom the first spring will usually bloom in the second. In the north where there are shorter growing seasons and long winters, it may take as long as 3 years for them to bloom.
Many consider waiting the hardest step because we want to see the results of our efforts immediately instead of waiting 2 or 3 years. To help combat this problem, I have 3 seedling beds. One bed contains plants that have been planted the previous fall. The 2nd bed has plants that will bloom for the first time next year.
The 3rd bed has plants that bloomed for the first time last year. Often, a new seedling will be much better the 2nd year it blooms. Because of this, I leave them undisturbed until they have bloomed for 2 years.
STEP 6 - Enjoy
Now comes the time you've been waiting for. As the bloom season draws near, you will probably want to watch the progress of the bloom scapes, checking for good branching and bud production. The day before the first buds open will be filled with anticipation as the buds swell in preparation for their first display to the world. Early the next morning you will want to be at bedside to see your new creation. For many of us, this is the grandest moment of all, seeing these new daylilies for the first time. Some may be disappointing, but most will be very pleasing to the eye. A few may even be exceptional, but they all will be your creations.
Yes, it's true that not all daylily seedlings turn out to be super gorgeous flowers. In fact, I have heard said that only one in a thousand is good enough to register as a new cultivar. But from my own experience, I have found that many of these seedlings are actually prettier than some of the daylilies for sale in your local nursery. You can see some examples of crosses I have made and the resulting seedlings by clicking on the sample crosses in the index.

15
Home Gardens / Some Hibiscus flowering
« on: October 22, 2008, 07:06:13 AM »
I have no idea about the names. sorry.









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